Z1R BUILD

[John H]

Finally got some painting done. The crankcase on the engine stand worked great. I was able to stand in one place and paint while rotating the cases with the crank. I used Spraymax 2K which worked pretty good.

paint crankcase1.JPG (251.42 KiB) Viewed 1712 times

Paint crankcase2.JPG (252.83 KiB) Viewed 1712 times

[John H]

Paint's dry so assembly starts with the crank and gearbox parts. Of course all the threaded holes have been chased and cleaned.

assemble eng.JPG (321.5 KiB) Viewed 1681 times

Once everything checks out the bottom engine case is ready to bolt up.

assemble eng2.JPG (326.11 KiB) Viewed 1681 times

Many of the early Z's and KZ's fitted the dyno rotor without a keyway which was a mistake as the back side of the rotor includes the starter clutch. Consequently they would start slipping on the crankshaft taper and gall badly. Usually lapping with some abrasive paste solves the problem. The final fitting indicated the rotor is now .015" farther onto the crank and binding against the starter gear. So next step is to remove. 015" from the gear.

starter gear narrow.JPG (165.67 KiB) Viewed 1681 times

[Lotus54]

Interesting main bearing setup.

[John H]

Piston rings should arrive this week. The rotor was rubbing when I tried installing the dyno cover. Placing an indicator on the rotor showed a wobble of .005". I thought it could possibly be the taper bore of the rotor since it was pretty galled up before I lapped it in. Rotating it to different positions changed nothing indicating it was the crankshaft.

Crank wobble.JPG (331.66 KiB) Viewed 1392 times

Years ago when I use to weld these Kawasaki crank pins so they wouldn't shift. Part of the process was dialing in the end of the crank and if necessary I would true them before welding. I made a crude spreader similar to the one I use to have. It worked well and now the crank and rotor run perfectly true.

crank truing wedge.JPG (278.9 KiB) Viewed 1392 times

[John H]

Finally got the motor buttoned up and in the frame. The "C" jig worked perfect. First time I've installed on of these without sweating. It takes only one small tilt and twist then drops right in. Next phase is rebuilding the carbs.

Motor install.jpg (286.21 KiB) Viewed 1152 times

[John H]

Carbs are in fairly good condition and after cleaning and vapor blasting they were disassembled. Jetting if a bit off for this motor and year so have to make a decision whether to test if first or go with manual's settings. Float needles show slight wear and probably ok as is but with a slight modification I can exchange them for a viton needle/seat combo that will work.
It's rather time consuming setting float levels when all 4 carbs are racked up on their frame so I mickie'd up a stand so I could do one at a time, at eye level. With my fuel level attachment I can fill, check, drain and adjust and refill much easier this way.

Zir carbs.JPG (320.05 KiB) Viewed 905 times

Carb float set.jpg (399.75 KiB) Viewed 905 times

Carb float jig.JPG (210.62 KiB) Viewed 905 times

[Lotus54]

Neat jig to install engine. I tipped the engine on end, and lowered the frame over the engine with my sei. But I like the way you did it.
Great idea with the carbs.