A pack of TY175's!

[John H]

Now I understand what Bill is shooting for. Very nice. Is the steering head angle stock?

[spinner]

It is stock

[John H]

The 2 year wait is almost over and in a couple of weeks the grandsons will finally be here and have a chance to ride the TY's. We will build an obstacle course with added changes as things progress.
My 96 xr250r has been neglected for the past 25 years so I finally took time to detail and tune up on it. Looks and sounds so good maybe I'll keep it around. It has about 20 hours on it since new. Maybe I should trade it for a trials bike

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[Lotus54]

Fantastic!
They all look great

[John H]

Well, we had a problem with the clutch not completely disengaging. I assumed it would be the post on the clutch arm so took that out and built it up with some hard facing rod. That helped some but not enough so opened up the clutch side to check for worn or warped plates. All looked good. I pulled the clutch rod out but couldn't get the other half out so rigged a plug to fit in the clutch arm hole and blew the rod out with air pressure. I discovered that the 3/16" bearing ball wasn't in between the 2 clutch rods. Well, new gasket and oil and it works perfect.
Close inspection showed the brake pedal was cracked in the old weld repair so off it came for proper repair. Hope the grandsons learn quick how to keep up on things like this.

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[Lotus54]

Those pesky little ball bearings can be easy to loose. (Or remember if you installed).
Nice to get some more things fixed up.

I made a goofup and bent my aluminum bike hauler rack badly. So I ordered some new metal, cut and welded up. Now I am installing wiring for the lights I added (using some pex for conduit) and getting some nice stainless domed bolts to old it on the steel ‘tube’.

[John H]

I can see why someone may miss that little ball as the parts list doesn't show it. It points only to the other half of the clutch rod but when you read the text, is lists the 3/16" ball.
Call me next time you need a bit of aluminum as I have quite a lot of it. Just never know what you will find around here.
Well, another situation cropped up, the shift lever shaft wobbles so much it's hard to select a gear. Closer inspection showed that the bushing in the shifter shaft was worn badly due to a missing seal. This is a hardened bushing that is cast into the cover so not such a simple fix as it was to hard to drill oversize. After looking at the condition of this piece on the other motors it was apparently common to get mud/dirt in there causing the problem. I built a fixture so I could bore it oversize
and press in a bushing and then finish the bore to match the shifter shaft. A new seal 12x19x3 ?? is easily installed so now it shifts great. Tomorrow will be will be the first day for the boys to ride a real bike! Should be fun.

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[Lotus54]

I have one piece of oiled bronze rod if you need a small bit for something.

I am learning that it often takes more time to fabricate something to hold the part than it does to machine the actual part.

[John H]

Thanks, good to know that. For now, the small cavity behind the cover will be packed with light grease. A new seal should keep dirt out.
One of the TYs has come up 'dead'. Like overnite it has zero spark. All the usual items has been tested again and again including coil, condenser, points, wiring and ground. Finally, just to make sure it wasn't just me?? I replaced the ignition system from the other TY to be sure. The bike fired right up. So back to the bench with both ignitions to compare.
So far, they test identically. I've ordered another set of points and condenser so will wait and see if this makes a difference.

[John H]

It's near impossible for me to see through the nickel size hole in the flywheel to adjust the points. The manual says the points gap should be between .012 and .014. and open at .07 btdc. Not sure which is more important since the ignition plate is not adjustable. If the correct settings don't correspond, I will modify the ignition plate making it adjustable.
I sacrificed a flywheel so I can accurately set the points gap and then test to see how close the timing is. The dwell is important when getting maximum spark. Now with just the center hub of the flywheel I can clearly see what the settings are.

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