62 Triumph Bonneville

[ATinkerer]

Looks like the gear root is very close to the shaft diameter, so a challenge to cut the gear and get a good shape to the tooth.

As I said, always learn something from watching your progress.

Gordon

[John H]

With the cylinder on, it's a good time to install and time the magneto. It's much easier setting the degree wheel accurately when you can measure from the top of the piston.

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One manual says time the mag to the drive side (left) cylinder and another says right cylinder. I went with 'drive side' cylinder
and plug wire pickup closest to the cylinder. I'll have to make a note of this or I will forget it for sure.
A problem shows different point gaps for each cylinder which means it's impossible to get both cylinders to fire at 39º BTDC.
At $125.00 for a new points cam ring I'll spend some time stoning the ring to bring the timing as close as possible to 39º. This can take from a few minutes to a few hours.

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[ATinkerer]

These photos and comment continue to highlight you skill.
I appreciate your sharing with us.

Gordon

[John H]

Thanks Gordon, I would like to see you and others show us some build diaries or progress on ongoing projects. You have a
fascinating motorcycle powered race car we would like to see and hear about.
Doug E also has some interesting projects we would like to see and hear about.

[Lotus54]

A guy I know has a Xanthos 23 (very accurate Lotus 23 duplicate) with a modern engine for sale. It needs assembly. I’d sure like to get it.
But I just plain don’t have the room right now... plus it probably wouldn’t go over very well.

[John H]

The engine is finally in the frame and all the correct bolts, studs and nuts are in place place but nothing tightened.

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Next was fitting the push rod tube seals. The process normally calls for a .030 crush fit. Anything more than .040 can warp the head. After double checking everything, I found that head had been milled close to .060 and when resting on the push rod tubes, the gap between the head and cylinder was close to .100". Since the push rod tubes are flanged on both ends, the head had to be counter bored .060 to make the correct .030 crush. Luckily I had a 1.125 end mill so back in the mill
and setting the angle plate at 3.3º which is the angle of the head in relation to the push tubes.

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With the head now in place there is a slight rocking action and with a bit of pressure the head seats perfectly.

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[John H]

Yesterday I delivered the tank and fenders to Young Pon in Bellingham. He was referred to me by Bill Stevens, President of
Washington Vintage Motorcycles who has had several bikes painted by YP. His quality is top notch. He also has a small collection of vintage bikes from Bultacos, BMW, Nortons, Guzzis and more.
Meanwhile it's time to finish the primary side. The rotor had been loose on the crank and damaged the keyway in the crank.
The only option at this point was to make a special key that would take up the slack. The stator had a broken wire but was far enough from the stator it was an easy fix.

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The primary cover has been damaged before and welded on. There is still a small crack where the foot peg was bent back in to it so more welding is required.

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Next is finishing the primary cover. There were several nicks and scratches that need sanded out and then buffed. This will be the final piece to polish.

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Next will be adding the wheels.

[Dragonknee]

Amazing work John, Master craftsman for sure

[John H]

Got some winterizing done so back on to fun stuff. The elbow grease paid off and the primary cover finished nicely. The small dent is not visible since it goes behind the footrest so I'll let that slide.

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The speedo and tach are finished. Kinda sticky even after cleaning so I've ordered a can of Starrett instrument oil.

Most vertical twins require a torque plate to reduce vibration. If this isn't kept tight it the holes become too big
and the plate doesn't do it's job.

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The template locates the studs as well as the torque plate. New pieces are cut to fit and welded in place then drilled. It was chrome plated originally but paint will have to do for now.

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More later.

[John H]

Everything was going well on the head until I put the wrong stone on the seat grinder. I had cut the 30º angle with a 60º angle stone. Well my option at this point was replace the seat. First problem, these seats are cast in place and not necessarily concentric with the valve guide. Most comments suggested the head was trash. With nothing to lose, I preheated the head to 400º and layed down a bead of silicon bronze and over the next several hours brought the temp down.

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I used the little Neway seat cutter to remove much of the excess well then finished it off with my vintage Souix seat grinder.

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The Neway valve cutter does a good job of dressing valves and cuts down on lapping time.

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Everything finished well so I think I dodged a bullet.