62 Triumph Bonneville

[John H]

The cad plated fasteners arrived and as usual really look great.
Now the fun begins trying to remember where all the fasteners belong.
It's nice that Triumph listed all the the bolts and studs by size and length.
The odd part is that there are different size heads and nuts that have specific locations but that's
not shown in the parts book.

[John H]

I've made some progress on assembly while waiting on some other parts.

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The boring bar I made to machine the head for new valve guides didn't work well.
The design is ok but I couldn't get a good repeatable finish.

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Finally welded a piece of 1/8" diameter tungsten carbide to it, then ground it to the shape needed for a good cut.
Now I can take cuts as little as .0005 which is ideal since the valve guides are to have .0015 interference fit.
Notice the .001 shavings made with the new cutter. All I need to do now is get it to work on the head.

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[Dragonknee]

Looks like the project is a good challenge, but I would guess they all are. Your a master at this stuff John and its great to have you around.

[John H]

It's the challenges that keep us going, and the reward is seeing a project finished.
Still working on the head, finishing the holes for the new oversize valve guides. One hole is not finishing as it should
so will order another oversize guide.
The correct bore lap tool arrived and will be used for the final finish .0005 (1/2 thousand).

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The upper fork bushing and seal retainer is threaded into the lower fork tube which requires a special spanner.
I don't have one in the tool box so made on from an old adjustable wrench. Works great. I need a tool box just for special tools.

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[John H]

The new rear wheel arrived so after close inspection started lacing it up. The short spokes are a combination of 10 spokes with a 90º elbow and 10 with a 100º elbow. The long spokes (20) are all the same.

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Spokes are stainless steel and require a special lubricant on the threads so they don't seize. It also make truing much easier.

[ATinkerer]

Thanks for keeping us up to date on your progress John.
I always learn something from notes, and admire your skill.

Gordon

[John H]

Thanks Gordon, Learn something every time I get into a project. It's what keeps me going.
Today I struggled welded cracks and holes in the aluminum front fender. I hope the painter is a better painter than I am welder. The saying 'it takes all day to do what I use to do all day' isn't a myth.

[John H]

Finally have the jugs back after having them bored .020 oversize. They check out right on at .0045 clearance.
My method of installation is to put the pistons in the cylinder first then align the wrist pin to the rod and slide it in.

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The speedo and tach were disassembled, cleaned and the housing repainted. The trip reset was broken off so to fix it
requires making a fixture to line up the broken shaft with a new piece and weld together.

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It had to be ground to size before it would slide out of the fixture. Next a .040 hole is drilled to hold the small knob on
with a small pin.

[ATinkerer]

I continue to learn things. Would not have thought to repair the trip shaft, would have tried to make a new one.

Gordon

[John H]

Gordon, the small spur gear is part of the shaft. The gear on the later version which is non-chronometric is pressed on but
won't interchange with the chronometric unit.

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