Z1R BUILD

[John H]

Finally got some painting done. The crankcase on the engine stand worked great. I was able to stand in one place and paint while rotating the cases with the crank. I used Spraymax 2K which worked pretty good.

paint crankcase1.JPG (251.42 KiB) Viewed 336 times

Paint crankcase2.JPG (252.83 KiB) Viewed 336 times

[John H]

Paint's dry so assembly starts with the crank and gearbox parts. Of course all the threaded holes have been chased and cleaned.

assemble eng.JPG (321.5 KiB) Viewed 305 times

Once everything checks out the bottom engine case is ready to bolt up.

assemble eng2.JPG (326.11 KiB) Viewed 305 times

Many of the early Z's and KZ's fitted the dyno rotor without a keyway which was a mistake as the back side of the rotor includes the starter clutch. Consequently they would start slipping on the crankshaft taper and gall badly. Usually lapping with some abrasive paste solves the problem. The final fitting indicated the rotor is now .015" farther onto the crank and binding against the starter gear. So next step is to remove. 015" from the gear.

starter gear narrow.JPG (165.67 KiB) Viewed 305 times

[Lotus54]

Interesting main bearing setup.

[John H]

Piston rings should arrive this week. The rotor was rubbing when I tried installing the dyno cover. Placing an indicator on the rotor showed a wobble of .005". I thought it could possibly be the taper bore of the rotor since it was pretty galled up before I lapped it in. Rotating it to different positions changed nothing indicating it was the crankshaft.

Crank wobble.JPG (331.66 KiB) Viewed 16 times

Years ago when I use to weld these Kawasaki crank pins so they wouldn't shift. Part of the process was dialing in the end of the crank and if necessary I would true them before welding. I made a crude spreader similar to the one I use to have. It worked well and now the crank and rotor run perfectly true.

crank truing wedge.JPG (278.9 KiB) Viewed 16 times