Shadow Build

[John H]

I'm finally ready to restore the Shadow. I bought it years ago in fair condition and rode it briefly before deciding to rebuild it. I wasn't interested in making it original the but this time I will go in that direction. It was disassembled and inspected for damages, then business picked up, and realizing I wouldn't get to it again for some time I had a box made to store it in. 35 years later, it's time. I plan to enjoy the build along with the memories from back in the day.

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[ClineDesign]

Really looking forward to this build. Let me know if you'd like photos.

My favorite Vincent song: https://youtu.be/j0kJdrfzjAg

[Lotus54]

I can’t wait to see some progress pictures. Those are very interesting machines.

[ClineDesign]

Tell us about the Corvette.

[John H]

The Vette was one of many sport cars and hotrods I had over the years. Lots of fun, lots of tickets too.
The Shadow build will be slow, but starts with inventory of what I have and what is needed to be bought or made.
I want it to be a 10 so will spend the extra time to get it as close as possible.
One rack will be for motor only while the other will be for all other parts. Each tray will be coordinated
with with the parts drawings available. With close to 1500 parts it's much easier for me doing it this way.

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[Lotus54]

I like your rack system. I use zip-locks that I write on, then clear plastic tubs. Not too bad, but your system is certainly better

[John H]

The racks idea came from my restaurant days. If interested, you can see why the Shadow got put on hold.
I spent 4 years restoring the Historic Antlers Inn Resort, then ran it 11 years. https://www.thegrillatantlersinn.com/gallery It appears to be doing well.
While waiting for the first parts order to arrive the crank was disassembled to determine if the big end pin was still usable. It isn't reusable so add that to the next order along with a new oversize main shaft since the old one spun in the flywheel. The new big end pin will be oversize also to give a tighter press fit in the flywheels. It was common in these motors for the flywheels to shift from shock on the drive train. Back in the day, press fit would have been possibly 10 tons. Now days the press fit will be 20 tons or more. That should solve the problem.

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[John H]

I have all the parts needed to rebuild the heads. Several steps are required to do it right. First is honing the lower valve guide bore in the casting to be in line with the datum point which also the seat for the upper valve guide. This also removes any effects from 70 years of abuse. Like trying to remove the guide without heating the head, or a valve guide retainer coming out and allowing the guide to start moving around. The new valve guides are oversize od and undersize id so need to be machined to give a good shrink fit in the head when it is cooled. Next is reaming the id to give the valve to guide clearance recommended. The reamer is piloted off the top valve guide seat so both will be perfectly in line with each other, and the valve seat which is another process.

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[John H]

Still waiting for parts but did install the valve guides after lapping the guide holes in the head. The new guides are .369" id and now in the head and now .368" so it was necessary to reduce the pilot diameter to match. This isn't a critical dimension but needs to at least go into the new guide freely. The finish bore will be .373" for the .3715" valve stem.
Next step will be to re-sharpen the taper at the top of the guide. There is no easy way to drive the guides in even with a matching driver without slightly rolling this edge. It's important this edge is sharp as it helps remove excess oil from the valve stem and acts as a oil scraper.

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[Lotus54]

I really like the pictures and updates.
Those engines are so interesting.

I’m picking away on little items on the vintage OSSA- taking way to long to make stuff on the lathe (but having fun learning).

Mark