72 Benelli 175 Enduro

[Lotus54]

Just some better detail.

[Lotus54]

I have the cases together. One picture shows the middle of applying some Hylomar, I finished, smoothed and thinned- so just a smear. Especially wanted to make sure crank area was well sealed.

I did goof up and forgot to put a circlip in the proper order on the shifter. But only took a few extra minutes. It keep the shift shaft from pushing into the case.

The only thing I’ve had problems finding is the wrist pin bearing and pin. I think I have one that will work coming- but will have to wait to make sure. Might have to take a couple mm off the pin lenght.

[John H]

I'm still very impressed with the mass in those cases. Much like the Aermacchi cases.

[Lotus54]

The 125 has the same cases (with slightly smaller cylinder stud spacing etc).
Pretty robust for not very high output engine.

I just put the clutch on- I have pushed the big spring down and gotten the nut to start before, but could not this time. So made up a plate that I could tighten down.

[Lotus54]

Still some polishing to do

[John H]

Nice to be that close to the end of the engine build. Wish I was that close. I know you have a good buffer. I have a ton of buffing supplies left over from my business. Also several small scotchbrite wheels which are great for deburring steel parts.

[Lotus54]

I cleaned out the holes and installed studs. (Then got sidetracked into working on wiper for vaporhoner).

I used the Snap-on stud tool I got unused but second hand. A friend that does a LOT of OSSAs said these are the best.
It works really well.

[John H]

Nice set. I assume they are metric threads, right?

[Lotus54]

Nice set. I assume they are metric threads, right?

Yes, Metric.
I damaged one original ‘die’ on a particularly stubborn stud. But I cleaned the taper back up on my little lathe successfully. I did get a replacement, but still using original one.

The ‘head’ will work with ‘standard’ thread, but of course need to buy appropriate ‘dies’ (or whatever they call them).

[Lotus54]

I fit piston/rings/cylinder.
I fit an aftermarket ignition/charging, so have to set timing. They give it in degrees or mm on the flywheel. Of course, the flywheel is a different size. I didn’t think to measure the rod length when apart- with that it is seconds with an online calculator.
I could fit my cam timing wheel- but that would sure take longer than a few seconds.

I suspect this engine is not very touchy on timing, it is fairly modest in output. But it would be nice to know and a lot easier to setup on the bench.
Guess it is time to fit the wheel. (I did transfer from the other flywheel by eye, and likely that is close enough).