Some Vincent projects for John

[John H]

Shimming the timing chest is time consuming but necessary to control wear and reduce noise.
The basic shim set requires 16 shims. There are 4 different sizes from 5/16 x 1/2" to 5/8 x 3/4".
Shims range from .003 to .030 are added to give just the right clearance.
With the steady plate installed, a feeler gauge is used to measure movement of all the moving parts.

[ClineDesign]

Isn't it about time for a BBQ at John's so we can see the progress in person?

[John H]

Uh, I think that would call for a clean up day.

[John H]

The cylinders are finished. The liners were magnafluxed at the top edge as this is where a crack would possibly develop.
This done, a .125" lip that stands proud of the muff (cylinder) on top is the sealing lip for the head as there in no head gasket. The second part is making sure there is a .003" gap between the larger surface on the head and muff.
This gap is critical. When the head is torqued correctly this gap will be zero and the head will not warp. I know, that's clear as mud.

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[John H]

Heads are finished and installed.

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Installing all the small parts is a bit tricky.

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The last part of the top end is timing the cams and setting valve clearance. It's difficult finding
exact numbers when trying to go by the 'cam card' method. If I can get 3º variance or less that's good.

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[Dragonknee]

Damn John that looks like heart surgery.... Nice to see it going together

[John H]

Been a while since I posted progress on the Vin. It's coming together slowly. As with any old bike the unknown sometimes out ways the known. The engine is buttoned up and most other parts have been massaged and ready for assembly.
Wheels were stripped down, the drums turned and the tapered bearings re-packed. Then the both wheels had to be re-laced.
The special rear tire (tyre) arrived from the UK only to find the run out is so bad it can't be used. Will be discussing the problem with the supplier today.

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[John H]

Priming a rebuilt Vinnie is a bit of an ordeal as there are several passages and restrictors before the oil is returned to the oil tank. It will be much easier doing it on the bench than in the frame and using the kickstart lever. This is standard procedure on many race engines so why not an old bike engine.
The gear teeth on the old pump piston is removed and a socket head adapter is attached at the end. This end inserts through a special oil pump retaining plug allowing for a ball end allen wrench to drive the pump with the drill motor. Since I broke my big toe yesterday trying to start a cranky old bike, this tool will be a life saver.

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