Carbs are in fairly good condition and after cleaning and vapor blasting they were disassembled. Jetting if a bit off for this motor and year so have to make a decision whether to test if first or go with manual's settings. Float needles show slight wear and probably ok as is but with a slight modif...

Finally got the motor buttoned up and in the frame. The "C" jig worked perfect. First time I've installed on of these without sweating. It takes only one small tilt and twist then drops right in. Next phase is rebuilding the carbs.

Piston rings should arrive this week. The rotor was rubbing when I tried installing the dyno cover. Placing an indicator on the rotor showed a wobble of .005". I thought it could possibly be the taper bore of the rotor since it was pretty galled up before I lapped it in. Rotating it to differen...

Paint's dry so assembly starts with the crank and gearbox parts. Of course all the threaded holes have been chased and cleaned. assemble eng.JPG Once everything checks out the bottom engine case is ready to bolt up. assemble eng2.JPG Many of the early Z's and KZ's fitted the dyno rotor without a key...

Interesting that some other bikes attached these rotors without a key. The Z1R is the same and it causes real problems as the starter clutch bolts to the rotor.

Finally got some painting done. The crankcase on the engine stand worked great. I was able to stand in one place and paint while rotating the cases with the crank. I used Spraymax 2K which worked pretty good.

Sounds like you are sold on Vape ignitions. I have one on the 370 Pursang but don't have instructions for setting it up. Hadn't thought about a loose flywheel.

I bet it's a blast to ride.

Still too cold to paint so prepping the final parts. The original cam covers were painted black with only the outer ends being polished. The cam cover on this bike was chrome plated and it has started pitting. I had thought of using muratic acid to strip it but it would have been difficult so starte...